The prototypical tourist visit to Comala, involves arrival at noon, lunch at a Portales restaurant (an array of Mexican delicacies supplied gratis with drink orders), a quick stroll around the plaza, then back onto the tourist bus for another destination.
But why not stay a night, or several, and discover for yourself the reasons this town 15 minutes north of Colima has been d
esignated one of a dozen Pueblos Mágicos de México? The coveted moniker is a way to encourage visitors to look beyond the beach, and to stay in these selected "magical" towns that have been specially recognized for their history, art, architecture and cuisine.
Comala more than measures up, according to local historian Jaime Valdez Galván.
"Comala is among the oldest towns in Western Mexico, with considerable historic significance," Valdez Galvan notes. "And it is the only in the state which retains its architectural identity in spite of earthquakes."
Indeed, exploring the town on foot is a wonderful way of getting acquainted with the traditional white-washed brick adobe structures that have defined the colonial town for centuries.
| Comala Hostals |
Comala currently has 6 hostales, or Bed and Breakfasts. The breakfast offerings vary from none, to continental, to hearty meals that should carry you through lunch.
Pueblo Blanco: Benito Juarez No. 60, Tel 312-315-5039. 3 attractive double rooms with garden views, $500 pesos, includes coffee and sweet rolls. Full breakfast, another $100 pesos for two. Off street parking, family atmosphere.
Comalteco: V. Carranza 138, 312-315-5253. Nearest the central square. 2 spacious double rooms, king bed, shared bath, $520. One smaller room, private bath, $400 pesos. Continental breakfast.
Comalli: Reforma No. 193, 312-315-5729. One unit has three bedrooms, sitting room and kitchenette and sleeps 6, but you are charged only $600 pesos per double room that you occupy. The second unit has bedroom (king bed) and study (foldout bed). Double occupancy is $600 pesos, including continental breakfast. Off street parking and beautiful mango orchard and gardens.
El Naranjo: Ocampo No. 39, Tel: 312-315-5729. 3 rooms, 2 with shared bath, one with private bath. $600 pesos for 2, with full breakfast. $500 pesos without breakfast.
Casa Alvaredo Bed & Breakfast: Álvaro Obregón at the corner with Guillermo Prieto, 312-314-5454 and -5513. One unit, $750 pesos for two, and $100 pesos for each additional person, up to 4. Two rooms, kitchenette, covered patio with garden adjacent. Family atmosphere and full breakfast. See www.tomzap.com/alvareda.html.
Casa del Tío Jorge: Guillermo Prieto No. 122, Tel 312-315-5403. Not really a B&B, rather a newly constructed, but traditional style home, two large bedrooms, each with private bath, fully furnished kitchen, Living/dining space surrounds central patio. $600 pesos per night for one room, $1,200 pesos if you rent both. Catered meals available. -Katharine Collins |
Checking into one of the half-dozen reasonably priced hostales provides an ideal base for walking tours in and around the town.
Whenever and wherever you walk, you are safe and welcome. Don’t forget to bid “adios” (which can mean hello or goodbye!) to the clusters of people you pass in the street.
You will see that the warmth and friendliness of Comaltecos is genuine.
At dusk, watch for a tubero scrambling up a palm tree. He will set taps in the tree, attaching a gourd under each, and in the morning he will retrieve the refreshing liquid, called tuba, and sell it. Comala’s famed horses prance, and often dance, through the street.
On a morning stroll, you may see milk deliveries via horseback, or buy freshly baked bread from within a chiquihuite, a woven basket, atop a woman’s head.
If you can manage to stay several days, Comala is the ideal base from which to visit Nogueras, Colima, Volcán de Colima, and Suchitlán.
